The journal
Three trips, in the order they happened.
What we did, what it cost, what we got wrong, and what changed between one trip and the next. The map came out of these; the pages below are the working notes behind it.

19 days
The one we got wrong
Our first trip: two bases, too much booked ahead, and every famous sight at the wrong hour. What nineteen days taught us about planning Bali badly.

27 days
East, and slower
The second trip, twenty-seven days: fewer bases, nothing booked more than a day ahead, and the hills and the islands instead of the beach strip.

Checking our own work
Our third trip was not exploring. Two hundred and fifty places, gone back to one at a time, to see what had changed and what had gone.
Every place named on these pages is on the map, with its hours, its best time and what it costs.